http://www.theage.com.au/world/place-of ... 1lqdj.html
Dubai is a repressive state, hiding behind religious piety and a dreadful kind of glitz.
ONE thing confused me about the British headlines last week, which were essentially a morality tale about the loneliness of the professional politician. Why did former UK defence secretary Liam Fox choose Dubai for his mysterious stopovers between London and Afghanistan? Four times in 18 months he laid his head there, when Bahrain or Oman were the usual options. But it was Dubai, one of the seven emirates of the United Arab Emirates. Of all the slave states in all the towns in all the world, he walks into this one.
Fox is not alone. In 2010, more than 700,000 British tourists stayed in Dubai's hotels. The British are Dubai's best customers, which exposes how much people will collude with, or ignore, evil if their hotel rooms are cheap, sumptuous and have cable TV. Virgin Holidays says on its website: ''Dubai is like no other place on Earth. It is a truly fabulous destination where visitors can indulge in top-quality hotels, great shopping, fine dining, state-of-the-art spas and, of course, fantastic beaches. There is, however, more to Dubai than meets the eye …''
Yes indeed. That copy could be rewritten to say: ''It is a truly fabulous destination where visitors can indulge in top-quality state censorship, great homophobia, fine misogyny, state-of-the-art police brutality and, of course, fantastic indentured servitude.''
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I went to Dubai two years ago because a friend was going for work and I am not a woman to let a friend go shopping in a tyranny alone. I knew there would be trouble, reading the guidebook on the plane. Dubai practises religious tolerance towards all religions, it said - except Judaism. So I knew I shouldn't do anything explicitly Jewish in the UAE, such as complain about the racist cartoons of hook-nosed Jews sitting on the world as if it were a big space-hopper made of gentiles. But Dubai, owner of the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building on Earth, has worse to show us than some casual anti-Semitism.
Dubai, like the rest of the UAE, is a repressive state, hiding behind religious piety and that dreadful word glitz. Do not dare to be gay, or adulterous, or a democrat in Dubai. Homosexuality will get you up to 10 years in prison. A group of transvestites got five years in Abu Dhabi for dressing up; two lesbians got a month in Dubai, for kissing on the beach, before being deported. I met a British woman in prison in Dubai. She was there for adultery, on the word of her husband - pale, thin, denied access to her children, almost too atrophied to speak.
It is an authoritarian oligarchy; the face of its ruler, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid al-Maktoum, smiles from billboards and, sometimes, from our Queen's own carriage at Ascot. There is no press freedom, just self-censorship. Insulting the royal family, or the flag, or possibly the architecture, will get you banged up. Everything gets you banged up in Dubai, except conformity and mindless shopping.
And who built this city in the desert? There are 250,000 foreign workers in Dubai, mostly from India and Bangladesh. They are indentured servants, slaves. The usual way to recruit them is to draw them a picture of joy - great wages, fabulous working conditions - and charge them an enormous recruitment fee. Then, when they arrive, the construction companies often steal their passports, deny them their wages and say they must work endlessly to pay for their return home, while living 10 to a room and working in terrible heat. They cannot change jobs, and they cannot strike. Last year 113 Indians committed suicide in Dubai, or one every three days.
And there is no stopping it. The recession is a blip as the UAE expands like an octopus. A vast project is afoot to create a new tourist paradise. Saadiyat Island in Abu Dhabi will be ready in 2020. The Louvre, which should know better, but doesn't, will have an annexe there; so will the Guggenheim, and so will New York - New York! - University.
We asked a Welsh couple why they came here. The answer arrived, from the man: the hotel staff would hold my dick if I asked. For me, that is not an advert, but others like to travel where labour is cheap and desperate and therefore loving.
It is almost understandable, if you are a psychopath. For every piece of human misery Dubai offers, it has a wondrous piece of leisure to distract you. This is its terror. So there are buildings of incredible scope and ugliness, fake islands in the shape of continents, and the Burj al-Arab Hotel, which is shaped like a sail and stuck above the Arabian Gulf.
This is all meat for gibbering travel PRs. There are many places on Earth as repressive, but North Korea and Saudi Arabia are not touted as dirty weekend destinations for residents of liberal democracies. Dubai is a place of horror, where fundamentalism meets hyper-capitalism. Could anything be worse? So again, Liam Fox, why?
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