Hermit wrote: ↑Wed Jan 13, 2021 2:44 pmYouse blokes got your knowledge from Youtube University, haven't you? From watching clips of crazies surfing gnarly breaks like Shipstern, Tasmania, The Right, Western Australia, Teahupo'o, Tahiti and so on. It's like watching a Formula 1 Grand Prix and concluding that all car drivers are batshit insane maniacs.
I have surfed kneeboards for 20 years and rarely taken off on waves over two metres. That would make me part of the vast majority of surfers who are not crazy. Granted, being hauled backwards over the falls can make one feel a bit apprehensive, and not being able to tell what is up and what is down while being tumbled around after a wipeout can be a little bewildering, but small waves are not normally dangerous. Apart from occasional scratches and bruises, a couple of stitches, one occasion of being swept out to sea, one of being knocked semi-conscious, a couple of close encounters with sharks, a few distant ones and of course having to hold my breath for a little while a few thousand times, nothing ever really happened to me. Certainly nothing serious. Which is more than can be said for the many boards I snapped.
Surfing is harmless, the thrills make it worth putting up with the occasional minor mishap, and most surfers are not insane risk takers.
Straya!
- Hermit
- Posts: 25806
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:44 am
- About me: Cantankerous grump
- Location: Ignore lithpt
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
I am, somehow, less interested in the weight and convolutions of Einstein’s brain than in the near certainty that people of equal talent have lived and died in cotton fields and sweatshops. - Stephen J. Gould
- Brian Peacock
- Tipping cows since 1946
- Posts: 37956
- Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:44 am
- About me: Ablate me:
- Location: Location: Location:
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
That wave is mental!
Rationalia relies on voluntary donations. There is no obligation of course, but if you value this place and want to see it continue please consider making a small donation towards the forum's running costs.
Details on how to do that can be found here.
.
"It isn't necessary to imagine the world ending in fire or ice.
There are two other possibilities: one is paperwork, and the other is nostalgia."
Frank Zappa
"This is how humanity ends; bickering over the irrelevant."
Clinton Huxley » 21 Jun 2012 » 14:10:36 GMT
.
Details on how to do that can be found here.
.
"It isn't necessary to imagine the world ending in fire or ice.
There are two other possibilities: one is paperwork, and the other is nostalgia."
Frank Zappa
"This is how humanity ends; bickering over the irrelevant."
Clinton Huxley » 21 Jun 2012 » 14:10:36 GMT
- Hermit
- Posts: 25806
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:44 am
- About me: Cantankerous grump
- Location: Ignore lithpt
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
All of them are, but especially Shipstern Bluff. Imagine getting hit by three lips of one 10 metre wave. It's basically a ten metre high slab of water pushing its way across a granite plate with just a slice of water in between. One ton per cubic metre of water.
Have you watched the Teahupo'o clip? It's an unbelievably beautiful monster.
I am, somehow, less interested in the weight and convolutions of Einstein’s brain than in the near certainty that people of equal talent have lived and died in cotton fields and sweatshops. - Stephen J. Gould
- Brian Peacock
- Tipping cows since 1946
- Posts: 37956
- Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:44 am
- About me: Ablate me:
- Location: Location: Location:
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
Yeah. That drops them off a cliff, and if they make it into the tube it rushes up and slaps them in the arse!
Rationalia relies on voluntary donations. There is no obligation of course, but if you value this place and want to see it continue please consider making a small donation towards the forum's running costs.
Details on how to do that can be found here.
.
"It isn't necessary to imagine the world ending in fire or ice.
There are two other possibilities: one is paperwork, and the other is nostalgia."
Frank Zappa
"This is how humanity ends; bickering over the irrelevant."
Clinton Huxley » 21 Jun 2012 » 14:10:36 GMT
.
Details on how to do that can be found here.
.
"It isn't necessary to imagine the world ending in fire or ice.
There are two other possibilities: one is paperwork, and the other is nostalgia."
Frank Zappa
"This is how humanity ends; bickering over the irrelevant."
Clinton Huxley » 21 Jun 2012 » 14:10:36 GMT
- Hermit
- Posts: 25806
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:44 am
- About me: Cantankerous grump
- Location: Ignore lithpt
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
The spit is just an inconvenience. It's mostly air, but then you go blind and have to continue by feel. You have a terminal problem, though, when you get in so deep, the curl comes back up the wave and underneath the board. Instant loss of control. The other problem with Teahupo'o is the shallow at the end. It bowls the wave out so radically that the face gets too steep to make it. You either straighten out and get hammered or you try and get through and get drilled. Either way, you can do nothing except hope not to get lacerated, have bones broken or experience an unfortunate coming together with your board as you bounce across the rocks. Having had some fairly exciting wipeouts in much smaller waves, I don't know how those blokes catch another wave after getting clobbered by the previous one.Brian Peacock wrote: ↑Wed Jan 13, 2021 5:44 pmYeah. That drops them off a cliff, and if they make it into the tube it rushes up and slaps them in the arse!
I am, somehow, less interested in the weight and convolutions of Einstein’s brain than in the near certainty that people of equal talent have lived and died in cotton fields and sweatshops. - Stephen J. Gould
- JimC
- The sentimental bloke
- Posts: 73016
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:58 am
- About me: To be serious about gin requires years of dedicated research.
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
I like body surfing in waves about my own height, no greater...
Nurse, where the fuck's my cardigan?
And my gin!
And my gin!
- Scot Dutchy
- Posts: 19000
- Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2010 2:07 pm
- About me: Dijkbeschermer
- Location: 's-Gravenhage, Nederland
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
Of course surfers are mental no sane person would do those tubes. Like rock climbers that dont use ropes. There is definitely a death curse in some people.
"Wat is het een gezellig boel hier".
- JimC
- The sentimental bloke
- Posts: 73016
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 7:58 am
- About me: To be serious about gin requires years of dedicated research.
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
Well, giant wave surfers perhaps, but not just your ordinary bloke or bird on a board...
(except for ignoring the slavering teeth of Great White Sharks)
(except for ignoring the slavering teeth of Great White Sharks)
Nurse, where the fuck's my cardigan?
And my gin!
And my gin!
- Scot Dutchy
- Posts: 19000
- Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2010 2:07 pm
- About me: Dijkbeschermer
- Location: 's-Gravenhage, Nederland
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
Jim they are not surfers. Surfing is for lunatics like so many dare devil sports. I walked 100 km in 24 hours. Pure madness. Nowhere near surfing of course but pure bloody mindlessness. I did rock-climbing. Our Swiss lady could explain what drives her to pothole.
"Wat is het een gezellig boel hier".
- pErvinalia
- On the good stuff
- Posts: 59297
- Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:08 pm
- About me: Spelling 'were' 'where'
- Location: dystopia
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
Scot hates surfing. In other news, water is wet.
Sent from my penis using wankertalk.
"The Western world is fucking awesome because of mostly white men" - DaveDodo007.
"Socialized medicine is just exactly as morally defensible as gassing and cooking Jews" - Seth. Yes, he really did say that..
"Seth you are a boon to this community" - Cunt.
"I am seriously thinking of going on a spree killing" - Svartalf.
"The Western world is fucking awesome because of mostly white men" - DaveDodo007.
"Socialized medicine is just exactly as morally defensible as gassing and cooking Jews" - Seth. Yes, he really did say that..
"Seth you are a boon to this community" - Cunt.
"I am seriously thinking of going on a spree killing" - Svartalf.
- Brian Peacock
- Tipping cows since 1946
- Posts: 37956
- Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:44 am
- About me: Ablate me:
- Location: Location: Location:
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
Like cyclists that don't wear helmets!Scot Dutchy wrote:Of course surfers are mental no sane person would do those tubes. Like rock climbers that dont use ropes....
Rationalia relies on voluntary donations. There is no obligation of course, but if you value this place and want to see it continue please consider making a small donation towards the forum's running costs.
Details on how to do that can be found here.
.
"It isn't necessary to imagine the world ending in fire or ice.
There are two other possibilities: one is paperwork, and the other is nostalgia."
Frank Zappa
"This is how humanity ends; bickering over the irrelevant."
Clinton Huxley » 21 Jun 2012 » 14:10:36 GMT
.
Details on how to do that can be found here.
.
"It isn't necessary to imagine the world ending in fire or ice.
There are two other possibilities: one is paperwork, and the other is nostalgia."
Frank Zappa
"This is how humanity ends; bickering over the irrelevant."
Clinton Huxley » 21 Jun 2012 » 14:10:36 GMT
- laklak
- Posts: 20981
- Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2010 1:07 pm
- About me: My preferred pronoun is "Massah"
- Location: Tannhauser Gate
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
I think surfers should have to wear helmets, and masks.
Yeah well that's just, like, your opinion, man.
Re: Straya!
It's enough when sharks wear masks, then the surfers will also be safe.
- Svartalf
- Offensive Grail Keeper
- Posts: 40340
- Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2010 12:42 pm
- Location: Paris France
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
100/24? you mean a sustained speed over 4/h including all interru^tions such as rest of food stops?Scot Dutchy wrote: ↑Wed Jan 13, 2021 10:28 pmJim they are not surfers. Surfing is for lunatics like so many dare devil sports. I walked 100 km in 24 hours. Pure madness. Nowhere near surfing of course but pure bloody mindlessness. I did rock-climbing. Our Swiss lady could explain what drives her to pothole.
That's doable, but not sustainable.
Embrace the Darkness, it needs a hug
PC stands for "Patronizing Cocksucker" Randy Ping
PC stands for "Patronizing Cocksucker" Randy Ping
- Svartalf
- Offensive Grail Keeper
- Posts: 40340
- Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2010 12:42 pm
- Location: Paris France
- Contact:
Re: Straya!
We need to create a material that is ductile and resilient like iron, but lighter than water, so all crazy swimmers can be equipped with protective mail, but still float.
Embrace the Darkness, it needs a hug
PC stands for "Patronizing Cocksucker" Randy Ping
PC stands for "Patronizing Cocksucker" Randy Ping
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 24 guests