Straya!

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Hermit
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Re: Straya!

Post by Hermit » Wed Jan 13, 2021 2:53 pm

Hermit wrote:
Wed Jan 13, 2021 2:44 pm
Youse blokes got your knowledge from Youtube University, haven't you? From watching clips of crazies surfing gnarly breaks like Shipstern, Tasmania, The Right, Western Australia, Teahupo'o, Tahiti and so on. It's like watching a Formula 1 Grand Prix and concluding that all car drivers are batshit insane maniacs.

I have surfed kneeboards for 20 years and rarely taken off on waves over two metres. That would make me part of the vast majority of surfers who are not crazy. Granted, being hauled backwards over the falls can make one feel a bit apprehensive, and not being able to tell what is up and what is down while being tumbled around after a wipeout can be a little bewildering, but small waves are not normally dangerous. Apart from occasional scratches and bruises, a couple of stitches, one occasion of being swept out to sea, one of being knocked semi-conscious, a couple of close encounters with sharks, a few distant ones and of course having to hold my breath for a little while a few thousand times, nothing ever really happened to me. Certainly nothing serious. Which is more than can be said for the many boards I snapped.

Surfing is harmless, the thrills make it worth putting up with the occasional minor mishap, and most surfers are not insane risk takers.
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Re: Straya!

Post by Brian Peacock » Wed Jan 13, 2021 5:16 pm

That wave is mental!
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Clinton Huxley » 21 Jun 2012 » 14:10:36 GMT
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Re: Straya!

Post by Hermit » Wed Jan 13, 2021 5:24 pm

Brian Peacock wrote:
Wed Jan 13, 2021 5:16 pm
That wave is mental!
All of them are, but especially Shipstern Bluff. Imagine getting hit by three lips of one 10 metre wave. It's basically a ten metre high slab of water pushing its way across a granite plate with just a slice of water in between. One ton per cubic metre of water.

Have you watched the Teahupo'o clip? It's an unbelievably beautiful monster.
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Re: Straya!

Post by Brian Peacock » Wed Jan 13, 2021 5:44 pm

Yeah. That drops them off a cliff, and if they make it into the tube it rushes up and slaps them in the arse!
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Clinton Huxley » 21 Jun 2012 » 14:10:36 GMT
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Re: Straya!

Post by Hermit » Wed Jan 13, 2021 6:34 pm

Brian Peacock wrote:
Wed Jan 13, 2021 5:44 pm
Yeah. That drops them off a cliff, and if they make it into the tube it rushes up and slaps them in the arse!
The spit is just an inconvenience. It's mostly air, but then you go blind and have to continue by feel. You have a terminal problem, though, when you get in so deep, the curl comes back up the wave and underneath the board. Instant loss of control. The other problem with Teahupo'o is the shallow at the end. It bowls the wave out so radically that the face gets too steep to make it. You either straighten out and get hammered or you try and get through and get drilled. Either way, you can do nothing except hope not to get lacerated, have bones broken or experience an unfortunate coming together with your board as you bounce across the rocks. Having had some fairly exciting wipeouts in much smaller waves, I don't know how those blokes catch another wave after getting clobbered by the previous one.
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Re: Straya!

Post by JimC » Wed Jan 13, 2021 8:01 pm

I like body surfing in waves about my own height, no greater...
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Re: Straya!

Post by Scot Dutchy » Wed Jan 13, 2021 9:45 pm

Of course surfers are mental no sane person would do those tubes. Like rock climbers that dont use ropes. There is definitely a death curse in some people.
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Re: Straya!

Post by JimC » Wed Jan 13, 2021 10:12 pm

Well, giant wave surfers perhaps, but not just your ordinary bloke or bird on a board... ;)

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Re: Straya!

Post by Scot Dutchy » Wed Jan 13, 2021 10:28 pm

JimC wrote:
Wed Jan 13, 2021 10:12 pm
Well, giant wave surfers perhaps, but not just your ordinary bloke or bird on a board... ;)

(except for ignoring the slavering teeth of Great White Sharks)
Jim they are not surfers. Surfing is for lunatics like so many dare devil sports. I walked 100 km in 24 hours. Pure madness. Nowhere near surfing of course but pure bloody mindlessness. I did rock-climbing. Our Swiss lady could explain what drives her to pothole.
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Re: Straya!

Post by pErvinalia » Wed Jan 13, 2021 10:35 pm

Scot hates surfing. In other news, water is wet.
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Re: Straya!

Post by Brian Peacock » Wed Jan 13, 2021 11:19 pm


Scot Dutchy wrote:Of course surfers are mental no sane person would do those tubes. Like rock climbers that dont use ropes....
Like cyclists that don't wear helmets! :D
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Clinton Huxley » 21 Jun 2012 » 14:10:36 GMT
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Re: Straya!

Post by laklak » Wed Jan 13, 2021 11:36 pm

I think surfers should have to wear helmets, and masks.
Yeah well that's just, like, your opinion, man.

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Re: Straya!

Post by NineBerry » Wed Jan 13, 2021 11:37 pm

It's enough when sharks wear masks, then the surfers will also be safe.

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Re: Straya!

Post by Svartalf » Thu Jan 14, 2021 1:18 am

Scot Dutchy wrote:
Wed Jan 13, 2021 10:28 pm
JimC wrote:
Wed Jan 13, 2021 10:12 pm
Well, giant wave surfers perhaps, but not just your ordinary bloke or bird on a board... ;)

(except for ignoring the slavering teeth of Great White Sharks)
Jim they are not surfers. Surfing is for lunatics like so many dare devil sports. I walked 100 km in 24 hours. Pure madness. Nowhere near surfing of course but pure bloody mindlessness. I did rock-climbing. Our Swiss lady could explain what drives her to pothole.
100/24? you mean a sustained speed over 4/h including all interru^tions such as rest of food stops?
That's doable, but not sustainable.
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Re: Straya!

Post by Svartalf » Thu Jan 14, 2021 1:21 am

NineBerry wrote:
Wed Jan 13, 2021 11:37 pm
It's enough when sharks wear masks, then the surfers will also be safe.
We need to create a material that is ductile and resilient like iron, but lighter than water, so all crazy swimmers can be equipped with protective mail, but still float.
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